When the American craft beer market is in the midst of another round of fashion – whether it’s for cloudy IPAs, over-hopped dips, or ales with exotic additives – Denver-based Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project seems to be going in the opposite direction. Rather than chasing immediate trends, this brewery has built its reputation on years of experience with Brettanomyces, saisons, sour ales, and barrel aging. And it has been doing so since 2010 – even before “wild” ales began to clog supermarket shelves and flea markets.
The opening of Crooked Stave coincided with the launch of other landmark projects of that decade, such as Jester King, and immediately set a high standard: balance, subtlety, attention to detail. Yes, contract brewing stifled growth in the early stages, but the impact Crooked Stave has had on Rocky Mountain beer culture can’t be overstated.
Today, the selection is much broader than it was in the early years. In addition to iconic saisons and sours like Surette, Petite Sour and the excellent Nightmare on Brett, Crooked Stave offers a lineup of classic IPAs and the underrated but technically flawless Von Pilsner, a pilsner that made the top 10 in our last blind tasting.
A special mention goes to Vielle, an example of a balanced saison that is often overlooked but deserves to be in every compilation about great American Craft brews.
Crooked Stave remains a brewery not for everyone. But that’s where its strength lies: to make complex, subtle, unhurried beers – and still stay relevant. Because for true connoisseurs, taste is above trend.
